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Clothing
(very basic!) Names and descriptions
(This list is not definitive or complete but rather, describes basic
garments.)
MEN
Trousers/Knee Breeches Knee breeches (below) were the
rage during the 1700s.
These garments tended to fit tightly around the knee and thigh but were
extremely baggy in the rear. Trousers are ok but were
typically a sign of the lower class. Both should be "drop front" style
having received their name by the flap which buttons along the waist
band. A French fly style was used during the period around 1750s and
featured buttons up the front, where a modern zipper would exist.
Trousers are more common during the early 1800's though knee breeches
were still being worn.
Shirts
(right) were long, often coming to the knee. Early shirts had a very
narrow collar but shirts after the 1760's have a collar similar to a
modern shirt. A man's shirt should always be covered with one of the
following - A waistcoat (vest), a frock (coat), smock (workman's shirt),
or a hunting shirt. Men with an exposed shirt would be rare. Shirts
should have only one or two buttons at the collar with no buttons down
the front of the shirt. Sleeves should be full with gathers at the
shoulder and wrist. Buttons may also be used at the wrist but would
have been rare on early garments, using instead cuff links. Gussets (a
square piece of material) are sewn under the arms to allow freedom of
movement.
Waistcoats (vest) may be sleeved or unsleeved.
They were worn at all times, summer and winter. Waistcoats are made of
the same material front and back. Weskits are similar but have a
cheaper material sew in the back of the garment. This garment is
designed to be worn with a frock (coat) thus the back would not be seen.
Waistcoats from the 1750s - 60s would be long, often to the knees. By
the 1770s the coats had shortened to waist length. By the early 1800s,
waistcoats (left,) were cut off strait at the bottom and often were
short enough to show the colorful shirt underneath. These later
examples would now have a collar - often one that would stand up around
the neck.
Knee socks were worn with breeches to cover the calf of the
leg. Though this sounds strange, socks may be worn over the end of the
knee breeches or under them. It also becomes necessary to wear garters
to hold up the socks. Garters appear as small belts, typically made
from leather and with brass or silver buckles. Less common are woven
garters which tie behind the knee. Garters may be worn above or below
the knee.
Shoes
were common
both in towns and on the frontier. Typical shoes included a buckle
(right) in the front though lace-up shoes were available (military
surplus dress shoes are an acceptable cheap replacement). Period shoes
were strait lasted, meaning there was no right or left shoe. Boots were
available but were quite expensive and would be worn only
by
officers and wealthy civilians. Shoes and knee stockings were more in
style. Moccasins (left) were commonly found on the frontier. Frontier
people could make their own and easily replace worn out footwear.
Center seam style moccasins were worn throughout the eastern Americas.
Dyer (brand name) moccasins are not acceptable.
Hats were worn by all! No man would leave the house without
a hat.
During
the revolutionary period tricorns were the rage. By 1810 tricorns were
replaced by top hats. The rather flat slouch hat was worn throughout
both periods. A cocked hat (right) is a slouch hat with the left side
pinned up. (This was done so as to avoid hitting the hat with musket or
rifle during military drills when the firearm was carried at shoulder
arms.)
All of the above types are commonly made of wool felted material
while the very best were made from beaver felt. All would be almost
exclusively black. A workman's cap also may be worn and may be a good
alternative for food booth and other event workers; these hats are made
of cloth and are easily sewn. Straw hats were also common during all.
represented at the Rendezvous. Rev war period straw hats should be low
crowned with rounded domes while later hats were taller and often flat
topped.
A
Neck cloth was worn by almost everyone. This
simple cloth was a square piece of material, folded into a triangle and
then tied around the neck. Many were made of silk while the common man
may have one from cotton or linen. This may also be worn (pirate style)
as a head covering.
Belts were quite
common and worn by men of all classes. Unlike belts today early belts
were used to carry things, not to hold up ones breeches. Tucked under
the belt may be a knife, belt axe, and other necessary items. Belts
were typically leather with a brass double-D buckle. (Avoid belts with
large round iron buckles as these would not gain popularity till the
1840s.) Belts should be 2 to 2.5 inches wide.
Sashes also were worn during this period. Sashes should be limited
to individuals portraying true backwoods longhunters or French
inhabitants. Sashes were between six and nine inches wide and as much
as 9 feet long. The narrow (two to two and one half inch) inkle loomed
sashes are not appropriate to the Rendezvous. Sashes would have been
very rare among eastern Americans.
Buttons while not
a piece of clothing, should be considered. Most ready-to-purchase
reenacting clothing comes complete with pewter buttons. Pewter buttons
are perfectly acceptable but would have been a type worn by the very
lowest classes such as slaves, indentured servants, the poor, and
soldiers. Horn, bone, and antler buttons also would fall into this
category. Brass buttons were typical of officers in the military and
occasionally by the average person. Cloth covered buttons were the
average type of button worn by most civilians. Buttons on women's
clothing was very rare and generally appear only on very fancy riding
jackets and such. |