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WOMEN Hats were worn by all women over the age of 15 during the 1700's. While many modern individuals are seen wearing mobcaps historically these are not the best choice. A simple cap would be more appropriate for most women. These caps were always white or rarely off white. The mobcap was considered an indoor hat or may have been worn under more fancy hats. The "little house" or "granny" cap of calico or other colored cloth is completely wrong. The Chemise or shift is the basic undergarment. These were universally white or occasionally off white. Colors should be avoided with this garment! Sleeves MUST cover the elbow! Sleeves and neck both utilize drawstrings to adjust the size. (Avoid using ribbon if possible, use cotton cord or, even better, linen tape.) The Bodice (vest) typically ties in the front with a low cut front. Though often seen at reenactments, continued research shows that this garment was not common during the periods represented. However, if you already have one, it is currently acceptable at the Rendezvous. A shortgown would be a better choice. The Petticoat (skirt) was tied around the waist with a draw cord. The petticoat was often made from as much as five yards of material and then gathered around the waist. Typically women wore at least two petticoats. Sometimes the edge of the top one was pulled up and tucked into the waist to reveal the design of the under petticoat. During cold weather women would wear even more, a woman wearing 16 petticoats has been documented. Petticoats of the English and Americans typically were long, extending below the ankle. French women were observed with petticoats only knee length (appalling to the Americans). Footwear as with men, includes leather shoes either tied or with buckles. Fabric shoes of similar design were common among ladies. Moccasins would also be correct for the frontier. Fichus were worn by most women and were very simply a square or triangular piece of cloth. They may be white, colored, and even printed. Many were as much as 36 inches wide. Neck clothes are made from a variety of material with silk being very common. Even among the less wealthy a silk neck cloth may have been their only fancy piece of clothing. Jumps or Stays (corsets) were worn by most women of all social classes. These garments were form fitted with lacings in back to insure a snug - very snug - fit. They contain "boning" or strips of a stiff material which run vertically throughout the garment creating a rigid garment which forces good posture, acts as a sort of girdle, and provides support (bras were not yet a part of women's' clothing.) The lifting and supporting function results in the oft noted ample and rounded cleavage. These garments are difficult to make and very costly to purchase. Most beginning reenactors will, understandably, forgo this expense.
OTHER CONCERNS Makeup during any period of the Rendezvous was quite different from today's makeup. If any makeup was worn it would be used to make the wearer paler - almost white. Sometimes small black beauty marks in a variety of shapes and designs would be added. Women who wore makeup in the often were those of questionable virtue. The "rosy" complexion of today's makeup is inappropriate for period dress. The best choice is (gasp) no makeup at all! Eyeglasses can ruin an otherwise perfect outfit. Visitors and reenactors immediately notice this inconsistency. Period glasses are available but can be rather costly. It is understood that individuals dressing only a couple of days a year may not want to incur this expense. However, if you have the option of wearing contacts or otherwise foregoing the modern eyeglasses please do so! Sunglasses were available but were very uncommon. Sunglasses were often worn by individuals in the advanced stages of syphilis, at which point light hurt the eyes. Avoid them while in period dress. Jewelry was worn but styles are quite different from today. Avoid wearing modern jewelry while in period dress. Watches are an especial problem. Nothing looks more out of place on an individual in period dress than a wristwatch. Other non-period things detract from your period dress. Something as simple as a purse is totally out of place. An easy answer is to create a simple cloth bag with drawstrings at the top. Place all of the things you need to carry in this rather than a purse (keep your watch in the bag also). Cloth bags should be used for any item not correct for the period. This includes items visible in a booth or when transporting items to or from the booth during Rendezvous hours. Footwear can be a problem for individuals wanting to dress for the event but not wanting to invest the $100+ for period shoes. The Rendezvous understands this problem and suggests wearing smooth black dress shoes as an inexpensive alternative. Sneakers and other obvious modern footwear are not allowed. |
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Clothing
(very basic!) Names and descriptions (This list is not definitive or
complete but rather, describes basic garments.)
Shortgown (right) was a common clothing item worn by women
of all ages and social classes, only the quality of the material would
change. Similar to the chemise arms should cover the elbows. No
buttons, ties, or other such closures were used; instead the garment was
pinned in the front.